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Friday 10 June 2016

Extract from Wikipedia. ........

Fruit development

The development sequence of a typical drupe, the nectarine (Prunus persica) over a 7.5 month period, from bud formation in early winter to fruitripening in midsummer (see image page for further information)
A fruit results from maturation of one or more flowers, and the gynoecium of the flower(s) forms all or part of the fruit.[10]
Inside the ovary/ovaries are one or more ovules where the megagametophytecontains the egg cell.[11] After double fertilization, these ovules will become seeds. The ovules are fertilized in a process that starts with pollination, which involves the movement of pollen from the stamens to the stigma of flowers. After pollination, a tube grows from the pollen through the stigma into the ovary to the ovule and two sperm are transferred from the pollen to the megagametophyte. Within the megagametophyte one of the two sperm unites with the egg, forming a zygote, and the second sperm enters the central cell forming the endosperm mother cell, which completes the double fertilization process.[12][13] Later the zygote will give rise to the embryo of the seed, and the endosperm mother cell will give rise to endosperm, a nutritive tissue used by the embryo.
As the ovules develop into seeds, the ovary begins to ripen and the ovary wall, the pericarp, may become fleshy (as in berries or drupes), or form a hard outer covering (as in nuts). In some multiseeded fruits, the extent to which the flesh develops is proportional to the number of fertilized ovules.[14] The pericarp is often differentiated into two or three distinct layers called the exocarp (outer layer, also called epicarp), mesocarp (middle layer), and endocarp (inner layer). In some fruits, especially simple fruits derived from an inferior ovary, other parts of the flower (such as the floral tube, including the petalssepals, andstamens), fuse with the ovary and ripen with it. In other cases, the sepals, petals and/or stamens and style of the flower fall off. When such other floral parts are a significant part of the fruit, it is called an accessory fruit. Since other parts of the flower may contribute to the structure of the fruit, it is important to study flower structure to understand how a particular fruit forms.[3]
There are three general modes of fruit development:
  • Apocarpous fruits develop from a single flower having one or more separate carpels, and they are the simplest fruits.
  • Syncarpous fruits develop from a single gynoecium having two or more carpels fused together.
  • Multiple fruits form from many different flowers.
Plant scientists have grouped fruits into three main groups, simple fruits, aggregate fruits, and composite or multiple fruits.[15] The groupings are not evolutionarily relevant, since many diverse plant taxa may be in the same group, but reflect how the flower organs are arranged and how the fruits develop.
Extract from Wikipedia. ........

Specialized terms for stemsEdit

Stems are often specialized for storage, asexual reproduction, protection or photosynthesis, including the following:
  • Acaulescent – used to describe stems in plants that appear to be stemless. Actually these stems are just extremely short, the leaves appearing to rise directly out of the ground, e.g. some Viola species.
  • Arborescent – tree like with woody stems normally with a single trunk.
  • Branched - aerial stems are described as being branched or unbranched
  • Bud – an embryonic shoot with immature stem tip.
  • Bulb – a short vertical underground stem with fleshy storage leaves attached, e.g. oniondaffodiltulip. Bulbs often function in reproduction by splitting to form new bulbs or producing small new bulbs termed bulblets. Bulbs are a combination of stem and leaves so may better be considered as leaves because the leaves make up the greater part.
  • Caespitose – when stems grow in a tangled mass or clump or in low growing mats.
  • Cladode (including phylloclade) – a flattened stem that appears more-or-less leaf like and is specialized for photosynthesis,[2] e.g. cactus pads.
  • Climbing – stems that cling or wrap around other plants or structures.
  • Corm – a short enlarged underground, storage stem, e.g. tarocrocus,gladiolus.
Decumbent stem inCucurbita maxima.
  • Decumbent – stems that lie flat on the ground and turn upwards at the ends.
  • Fruticose – stems that grow shrublike with woody like habit.
  • Herbaceous – non woody, they die at the end of the growing season.
  • Pedicel – stems that serve as the stalk of an individual flower in aninflorescence or infrutescence.
  • Peduncle – a stem that supports an inflorescence
  • Prickle – a sharpened extension of the stem's outer layers, e.g. roses.
  • Pseudostem – a false stem made of the rolled bases of leaves, which may be 2 or 3 m tall as in banana
  • Rhizome – a horizontal underground stem that functions mainly in reproduction but also in storage, e.g. most fernsiris
  • Runner (plant part) – a type of stolon, horizontally growing on top of the ground and rooting at the nodes, aids in reproduction. e.g. garden strawberry,Chlorophytum comosum.
  • Scape – a stem that holds flowers that comes out of the ground and has no normal leaves. HostaLilyIrisGarlic.
  • Stolon – a horizontal stem that produces rooted plantlets at its nodes and ends, forming near the surface of the ground.
  • Thorn – a modified stem with a sharpened point.
  • Tuber – a swollen, underground storage stem adapted for storage and reproduction, e.g. potato.
  • Woody – hard textured stems with secondary xylem.

Wednesday 8 June 2016

How to water your plants. ........




When the soil is dry, water the plant thoroughly. In fact, water the plant until the water comes out of the bottom of the planter. This will guarantee that the bottom roots in the planter have gotten water as well. However, don’t let the pot sit in the water on the saucer. Empty the saucer once it is done draining. Make sure the water temperature is between 62 and 72 F. (17-22 C.). You don’t want to shock the plant. Finally, keep in mind that if the plant wilts, you should still check the soil before watering because wilting doesn’t necessarily mean the plant needs water. Now that you know how to water a plant and how little water will kill a plant, you can have healthy office or home plants for your enjoyment from now on.


Watering is of no value if the water runs down the outside of the root ball, leaving the roots at the core of the plant dry. This can happen if you water too quickly or apply too much water at once. Slower watering is usually more effective. The key is to ensure that water gets to the root zone — whether you aretending seedlingswatering houseplantswatering a row of tomatoes or soaking thirsty shrubs and trees.
You can't use the "lift test" in your garden or landscape, but you can use a soil moisture sensor to see if it's time to water. For a more thorough investigation, push a spade into the soil near your plant and pull it back to see how the soil looks. If it feels moist to a depth of 6 to 12 inches, you're in good shape. If it's bone dry, water!

The Best Way to Water

  • Focus on the root zone. Remember that it's the roots that need access to water, not the leaves. Wetting the foliage is a waste of water and can promote the spread of disease.
  • Water only when needed. Automatic timersare especially useful; just make sure to watch the weather, and reduce frequency when rainfall is abundant. Too much water can be just as damaging to plants as too little.
  • Water deeply and thoroughly. Lawns and annuals concentrate their roots in the top 6" of soil; for perennials, shrubs and trees, it's the top 12". In heavy soil, it may take hours for water to percolate down 6-12". Use your finger or a shovel to check the progress.
  • Water in the morning. If you do get moisture on the leaves, this gives them time to dry out. It's much more difficult for plant diseases to get a foothold when the foliage is dry.
  • Mulch everything. Mulch reduces surface runoff and slows evaporation from the soil.
  • Use the right tool. For efficient watering at the root zone, use a soaker hose or an even more precise drip irrigation system instead of a sprinkler


Extract from Britannica .www.Britannica.com.......



farm managementmaking and implementing of the decisions involved in organizing and operating a farm for maximum production and profit. Farm management draws on agricultural economics for information on prices, markets, agricultural policy, and economic institutions such as leasing and credit. It also draws on plant and animal sciences for information on soils, seed, and fertilizer, on control of weeds, insects, and disease, and on rations and breeding; on agricultural engineering for information on farm buildings, machinery, irrigation, crop drying, drainage, and erosion control systems; and on psychology and sociology for information on human behaviour. In making his decisions, a farm manager thus integrates information from the biological, physical, and social sciences.
Because farms differ widely, the significant concern in farm management is the specific individual farm; the plan most satisfactory for one farm may be most unsatisfactory for another. Farm management problems range from those of the small, near-subsistence and family-operated farms to those of large-scale commercial farms where trained managers use the latest technological advances, and from farms administered by single proprietors to farms managed by the state.
In Southeast Asia the manager of the typical small farm with ample labour, limited capital, and only four to eight acres (1.6–3.2 hectares) of land, often fragmented and dispersed, faces an acute capital–land management problem. Use of early maturing crop varieties; efficient scheduling of the sequence of land preparation, planting, and harvesting; use of seedbeds and transplanting operations for intensive land use through multiple cropping; efficient use of irrigation and commercial fertilizer; and selection of chemicals to control insects, diseases, and weeds—all of these are possible measures for increasing production and income from each unit of land.
In western Europe the typical family farmer has less land than is economical with modern machinery, equipment, and levels of education and training, and so must select from the products of an emerging stream of technology the elements that promise improved crop and livestock yields at low cost; adjust his choice of products as relative prices and costs change; and acquire more land as farm labour is attracted by nonfarm employment opportunities and farm numbers decline.
On a typical 400-acre (160-hectare) corn-belt farm in the United States with a labour force equivalent to two full-time men, physical conditions and available technologies allow a wide range of options in farming systems. To reach a satisfactory income requires operating on an increasing scale of output and increasing specialization. Corn and soybean cash-crop farming systems have increased in number along with corn-hog-fattening farms and corn-beef-fattening farms. Thus, the choice of a farming system, the degree of specialization to be chosen, the size of operation, and the method of financing are top concerns of management.
For a typical crop-livestock farm in São Paulo’s Paraíba Valley, Brazil, large-scale use of hired labour creates a substantial management problem. With 30 to 40 workers per establishment, procuring and managing the labour—keeping abreast of demand and supply conditions for hired labour, working out contractual arrangements (wage rates and other incentives), deciding how to combine labour with other inputs, and supervising the work force—are of critical importance.
A rancher with thousands of acres, whether in the pampas of Argentina, the plains of Australia, or the prairies of the United States, is concerned about the rate of increase of the herd through births and purchases and herd composition—cows, calves, yearlings, steers, heifers. Risks from drought, winter storms, and price changes can be high. Weather, prospective yields, and the price outlook are the constant concern of competent and alert farm managers.
On a collective farm in the Soviet Union with 30,000 acres (12,000 hectares) and 400 workers, major management decisions are made by party–state representatives; the collective-farm chairman responds largely to their directives, though the farm manager is being given greater autonomy. Major management concerns are determining optimal size of the collective, improving labour incentives, increasing crop and livestock yields, and reducing unit costs—with emphasis on levels of fertilizer, on pesticide and herbicide use, and on conservation of soil and water in crop production.
Thus, the character of the world’s agriculture is shaped as millions of farmers manage the resources under their control in ways to obtain as much satisfaction as possible from their decisions and actions, which are made in a large variety of settings in regard to human, capital, and land resource combinations; technological possibilities; and social and political arrangements. Future agricultural progress depends on improving the quality of management and the environment in which farmers make decisions and on helping them adjust their decisions to the changing environment. In the low-income agricultures of the world in the 1980s, expanded research, improved input supplies and transport facilities, enlarged market opportunities, and an otherwise encouraging environment promise to open up a much wider area for managerial choice and decision making

Tuesday 7 June 2016

 How to graft mango



Tools

You should obtain a special grafting knife which is different from an ordinary knife as it is sharpened on one side only. It must be kept very sharp and clean at all times.
Use special 1.25 cm wide PVC grafting tape available from most nursery shops. Clean-cutting secateurs are useful for cutting bud wood, and small plastic bags and brown paper bags placed over the graft greatly improve the success rate. A fine sharpening stone is necessary to maintain a very sharp knife.


Rootstocks


Both Kensington and Common mango seedlings are suitable as rootstocks, as they produce uniform, vigorous seedlings that are compatible with other varieties.
The main requirement is to have vigour in the rootstock at the time of grafting. You can achieve this by using a well-drained potting mix and attending to nutrition and pest and disease control. Do not graft rootstocks that are not vigorous.
The size and age of the rootstock can vary considerably if it is vigorous. However, the most common stocks selected would be about 12 months old, 40-50 cm tall and up to 1 cm wide at a point about 20-30 cm above ground level. Field planted stocks can also be grafted after 6-12 months of growth.

Bud wood


Tip wood is considered the best material to use for grafting. The most suitable tips have prominent eyes or buds. The growth may vary from just matured wood (wood that has changed colour from the pink leaf, immature stage) up to fully matured growth.
Ensure all scion wood is free from pests and diseases.
Prepare the scion wood by cutting the young shoot (about 10 cm long), off the parent tree and trimming the upper and terminal leaves back, leaving about 1 cm of petiole on the scion. These short petioles protect the juvenile buds at the base of each petiole and indicate the success of the graft a few days after grafting. Cut the entire leaves and petioles towards the base of the scion back flush with the bark.

Grafting time

Only attempt grafting when the rootstocks are vigorous and the buds on the scion wood are swollen. Best results are obtained during warm, humid weather - usually from January until the end of April. You can be successful at other times of the year by artificially increasing the temperature and humidity. Day temperatures of 25-30 °C and nights of 18-21 °C are ideal. It is usually difficult to obtain quantities of suitable bud wood between flowering and fruit harvest.

Grafting methods

The most suitable height for grafting is about 20-30 cm above ground level. At this point, the rootstock should be straight, at least pencil thickness and have green bark. If the bark is old, brown or corky, avoid the area. Retain the leaves on the stock below the point of grafting.
A wide range of graft types can be used on mangoes, but the two most common are the whip and the cleft or wedge graft. The whip graft is used widely by nursery operators and other highly experienced operators, while the wedge graft is used by most other grafters. Both grafts are quite easy to do. After a little experience, and if you perform certain basic steps, you will achieve a high percentage of successful 'takes'.
Wedge or cleft graft
Prepare the scion wood by making two sloping cuts at its base to form a wedge 2.5-3 cm long, depending on the width of the stock. Cut the top off the rootstock 20-30 cm above soil level and make a clean-edged cut down the centre of the stem for about 3 cm.
Insert the scion wood wedge into the rootstock cut to match the cambiums on the thick side of the scion. Then tie the union firmly with grafting tape to seal the union, prevent moisture loss and stop scion movement.

Whip graft

A whip graft involves making a single-angled cut through both the rootstock and the scion wood. This cut would be similar to the first cut used on the cleft graft, though it need not be as long.
As with all grafts, ensure that the area where the graft is to be made is straight and preferably relatively young with green bark. Make only one angled cut on both the rootstock and the scion, preferably about the same length.
When tying the graft, start taping at the bottom and finish above the top of the graft. The cambium should be matched on at least one side of both the scion and rootstock during this process.

Covering the graft

You will greatly enhance your success rate by covering the newly completed graft with a small plastic bag and tying it at the bottom to enable a build-up of heat and humidity. You do not require further covering in a shaded greenhouse but, if the grafted plants are in the sun, place a small, brown paper bag over the plastic bag to prevent excessive heat build-up.
Removal of bags and grafting tape
Remove the plastic bag and paper bag from the graft once it has grown 1-2 cm. This may take 2 to 4 weeks. The new shoot growth is very brittle so handle the plant carefully.
Remove the tying tape after the first flush growth has matured. If left on too long (several months), the tape may restrict growth by becoming too tight in the graft area. The time taken to tape removal will be 2-4 months. The trees can be planted in the field at this stage.

Taking care

You will need to maintain a high level of hygiene at all times. Periodically dip grafting knives into methylated spirits to sterilise them. You should also spray the stocks and dip the scion wood in a 0.2 per cent mancozeb fungicide.

Post-grafting care

Over-watering recently grafted plants is perhaps one of the most common faults encountered. Remember that little leaf surface remains on the stocks following grafting and water loss through transpiration is minimal.
Suckering is sometimes prolific after grafting, if suckers grow from the rootstock remove them.

Sunday 5 June 2016

How to plant trees...........










The most common mistake when planting a tree is a digging hole, which is both too deep and too narrow . Too deep and the roots don’t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth. Too narrow and the root structure can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree.

As a general rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown. The width of the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself.

When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the centre bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone.

Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees.
Balled and burlapped (B & B) trees, although best planted as soon as possible, can be stored for some time after purchase as long as the ball is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady area. B & B trees should always be lifted by the ball, never by the trunk. The burlap surrounding the ball of earth and roots should either be cut away completely (mandatory, in the case of synthetic or plastic burlap) or at least pulled back from the top third of the ball (in the case of natural burlap). Any string or twine should also be removed. Backfill soil (combinations of peat moss, composted manure, topsoil, etc.) is then placed in the hole surrounding the tree just to the height of the ball or slightly lower to allow for some settling. Be careful not to compress the back fill soil as this may prevent water from reaching the roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball.



Planting Container Trees .
Container trees (though subject to greater heat and drying conditions than B and B) can also be stored for a brief period of time after purchase as long as the soil in the container is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady spot. The procedure for planting container trees is similar to that for B & B trees. In the case of metal or plastic containers, remove the container completely. In the case of fibre containers, tear the sides away.

Once carefully removed from the container, check the roots. If they are tightly compressed or ‘potbound’, use your fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to carefully tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting. In the case of extremely woody compacted roots, it may be necessary to use a spade to open up the bottom half of the root system. The root system is then pulled apart or ‘butterflied’ prior to planting. Loosening the root structure in this way is extremely important in the case of container plants. Failure to do so may result in the roots ‘girdling’ and killing the tree. At the very least, the roots will have difficulty expanding beyond the dimensions of the original container. To further assist this, lightly break up even the soil outside the planting zone. This allows roots that quickly move out of the planting zone to be more resilient as they anchor into existing surrounding soil conditions.

Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of the container. Again, remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by tramping it with your feet. Compress gently using your hands instead.

Planting Bare-Rooted Trees.
Planting bare-rooted trees is a little different as there is no soil surrounding the roots. Most importantly, the time between purchase and planting is a more critical issue. Plant as soon as possible. When purchasing bare-rooted trees, inspect the roots to ensure that they are moist and have numerous lengths of fine root hairs (healthy). Care should be taken to ensure that the roots are kept moist in the period between purchase and planting. Prune broken or damaged roots but save as much of the root structure as you can.

To plant, first build a cone of earth in the centre of the hole around which to splay the roots. Make sure that when properly seated on this cone the tree is planted so that the ‘trunk flare’ is clearly visible and the ‘crown’, where the roots and top meet, is about two inches above the soil level. This is to allow for natural settling.
How to plant vegetable successfully........



. Plant in a sunny location. Vegetables need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. The more sunlight they receive, the greater the harvest and the better the taste.

2. Plant in good soil. Plants’ roots penetrate soft soil easily, so you need nice loamy soil. Enriching your soil with compost provides needed nutrients. Proper drainage will ensure that water neither collects on top nor drains away too quickly.

3. Space your crops properly. For example, corn needs a lot of space and can overshadow shorter vegetables. Plants set too close together compete for sunlight, water, and nutrition and fail to mature. Pay attention to the spacing guidance on seed packets and plant tabs.

4. Buy high-quality seeds. Seed packets are less expensive than individual plants. If seeds don’t germinate, your money—and time—are wasted. A few “extra” cents spent in spring for that year’s seeds will pay off in higher yields at harvesttime.
www.almacac.com
How to plant and care for plantain tress


This plant grows from an underground rhizome reaching 12 to 15 feet tall with huge leaves, which wrap around the trunk. To obtain fruit, this tree needs 10 to 15 months without freezing temperatures to produce flowers and another four to eight months to grow plantains. Growing a plantain tree takes special care to produce fruit, but even without fruit this tree is very ornamental.

Remove the weeds in an area with full to filtered sunlight. Pick the warmest area in the garden and take advantage of reflected heat radiating off buildings and paved areas. Dig a hole with a shovel as deep as the root ball and plant the tree at the same level it was growing at before. Space the tree 4 to 6 feet away from any other plants.
Spread a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the plantain tree. Keep the mulch 6 inches away from the trunk and extend the mulch circle 4 to 6 feet wide. Mulching keeps the soil from drying out quickly and protects the plantain tree's shallow roots.

Water the soil whenever the top of the soil starts to dry out. Plantains need constantly moist soil, but not waterlogged soil. This tree requires a large amount of water during warm weather.

Prune away most of the suckers with a pair of pruners. These young plantain plants take away nutrients and moisture from the parent plant. If propagating a new plant, leave one sucker on the plant at a time. Let the sucker grow on the parent plant for six to eight months before removing it. Plant the new plant in a container until it is large enough to plant in the ground.

Feed the plantain tree once a month during the summer with balanced slow-release 8-10-8 fertilizer. This tropical plant feeds heavily and mature trees need about 1 to 2 lbs. of fertilizer. Spread the granulated fertilizer in a 4- to 8-foot-wide circle around the plant and scratch it into the top inch of soil with a hand cultivator. Do not sprinkle the fertilizer on the trunk.

Cover the plantain with a large blanket during cold weather when the temperature falls below freezing. Place a plugged-in light bulb under the blanket. Freezing temperatures kill the fruit, flowers and leaves of plantain trees that are not protected. The rhizomes survive in the ground at temperatures down to 22 degrees Fahrenheit. If the above ground part dies off, the rhizome will send up new shoots in the spring.

Cut plantain bunches from the stalk with a knife when they are ripe. Chop the tree down to the ground and shred the above ground parts for mulch. Spread this around your new plantain tree after you plant it.

Saturday 4 June 2016

Extract from Wikipedia. ........  How  to fight diseases in plant

Plant disease resistance protects plants from
pathogens in two ways: mechanisms and by infection-induced responses of the immune system. Relative to a susceptible plant, disease resistance is the reduction of pathogen growth on or in the plant, while the term disease tolerance describes plants that exhibit little disease damage despite substantial pathogen levels. Disease outcome is determined by the three-way interaction of the pathogen, the plant and the environmental conditions (an interaction known as the disease triangle ).
Defense-activating compounds can move cell-to-cell and systemically through the plant vascular system. However, plants do not have circulating immune cells , so most cell types exhibit a broad suite of
antimicrobial defenses. Although obvious qualitative differences in disease resistance can be observed when multiple specimens are compared (allowing classification as “resistant” or “susceptible” after infection by the same pathogen strain at similar inoculum levels in similar environments), a gradation of quantitative differences in disease resistance is more typically observed between plant strains or
genotypes . Plants consistently resist certain pathogens but succumb to others; resistance is usually pathogen species- or pathogen strain-specific.

Background

Plant disease resistance is crucial to the reliable production of food, and it provides significant reductions in agricultural use of land, water, fuel and other inputs. Plants in both natural and cultivated populations carry inherent disease resistance, but this has not always protected them.
The late blight Irish potato famine of the 1840s was caused by the oomycete Phytophthora infestans . The world’s first mass-cultivated banana cultivar Gros Michel was lost in the 1920s to Panama disease caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum . The current wheat stem , leaf, and yellow stripe rust epidemics spreading from East Africa into the Indian subcontinent are caused by rust fungi Puccinia graminis and P. striiformis. Other epidemics include
Chestnut blight , as well as recurrent severe plant diseases such as Rice blast , Soybean cyst nematode , Citrus canker.
Plant pathogens can spread rapidly over great distances, vectored by water, wind, insects, and humans. Across large regions and many crop species, it is estimated that diseases typically reduce plant yields by 10% every year in more developed nations or agricultural systems, but yield loss to diseases often exceeds 20% in less developed settings, an estimated 15% of global crop production.

However, disease control is reasonably successful for most crops. Disease control is achieved by use of plants that have been bred for good resistance to many diseases, and by plant cultivation approaches such as crop rotation , pathogen-free seed, appropriate planting date and plant density, control of field moisture and pesticide use.
www.wikipedia.com
How to bud an orange

Orange trees (Citrus sinensis) add aesthetic value to any lawn or landscape, but may not produce the sweetest fruit when planted from seed. This is because the orange’s taste is dependent on the genetic qualities of the fruit. The sweet and familiar taste of oranges comes from only a few species that are, in a sense, cloned using a process called budding. Thousands of years old, this process requires no lab equipment and can provide even the home gardener with the sweet taste of oranges year after year.

Choose a Tree

Budding an orange tree consists of transplanting a new growth bud from a scion tree to a naturally growing orange tree. This process can shock the system of both the bud and the tree, and a weak specimen in either case can result in a failure to properly incorporate the bud. Orange trees to be budded can be either young or established, but should be free of disease, infestation and stress from drought or lack of fertilizer. Also, the tree receiving the bud should feature bark that peels easily away from the wood when scored with a knife.

Choose a Bud

Select the bud of a healthy plant to increase the chances of successful budding. The bud should come from a tree branch that is no larger than 1/4 inch in diameter and is less than one year old. Ensure that the tree with the new growth bud is in its dormant stage, since active growing buds will not graft to the new tree properly.


Preparing the Bud

Once a good branch is selected, locate the plumpest bud nodule on the branch and make a crosscut incision 3/4 inch above the bud. This is where you will start to cut into the branch. Slide a sharp knife sideways into this cut and gently push forward, cutting away the bud along with a small piece of wood from the branch underneath. Once cut away, avoid touching the wet bottom area of the bud, since the oils from your hand can contaminate the bud.


Preparing the Tree

For the tree receiving the bud, select a branch that is between 1/2 and 3/4 inch in diameter. Choose a spot that doesn’t get much sunlight, since too much heat can cause problems with the budding process. Once selected, cut a horizontal line across the branch in the intended budding area with a knife. Cut another, slightly longer line with the knife down the length of the branch, creating a T formation. Gently peel back the bark from the corners made by the cuts and insert the new bud into the pocket.

Wrapping Up

Once the tree bud is inserted, cover the entire budded area with rubber strips or dark-colored tape. This will ensure the bud stays moist during the grafting process. After 3 weeks, remove the covering and examine the bud. If it is green and alive, the budding process was successful; if not, the process should be repeated.
www.wikipidiea.com
How to grow orange...

If you’ve not planted an orange tree yet, but are thinking of growing one, you may be thinking of starting one from orange tree seeds. Some orange varieties may come true from seeds, but most often commercial growers use trees that are grafted through a process called budding.


Seed grown trees often have a short lifespan, as they are susceptible to foot and root rot. If seed grown trees survive, they do not produce fruit until maturity, which can take up to 15 years.


Consequently, growing seedlings are best used, as the scion of a graft union between them and a rootstock that tolerates adverse growing conditions. Fruit is produced from the scion and develops more quickly on grafted trees than on trees grown from orange tree seeds. In areas where oranges grow, local nurseries may be the best place to purchase a grafted tree.

How to care for oranges



Water – Water needed for growing orange trees varies by climate and yearly rainfall totals, but as a rule of thumb, orange tree care involves regular watering in spring to prevent wilting and withholding of irrigation in fall. When taking care of an orange tree, remember that water lowers the solid content of the fruit. Depth of planting also affects how much water you provide during orange tree care. Growing orange trees usually need between 1 and 1 ½ inches of water per week.

Fertilization – Fertilization of growing orange trees depends on the use of the fruit. Extra
nitrogen fertilizer results in more oil in the peel.
Potassium fertilizer decreases oil in the peel. For high productivity of edible oranges, 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen should be applied yearly to each tree. Fertilizer should include potassium and phosphorus as well as a range of micro-nutrients. If your older orange tree does not produce fruit in abundance, take a soil test of the area where growing orange trees reside to determine what fertilizer ratio is needed. Additional fertilization is often applied by spraying the leaves of the tree once or twice a year.
www.wikipedia.com
Pruning – Pruning the orange tree for shape is not necessary. However, you should remove any branches that are a foot or less from the ground. In addition, remove damaged or dying branches once they are noticed.

Thursday 2 June 2016

Have you ever thought about this.........


 Although cabbage has an extensive history it is difficult to trace its exact origins owing to the many varieties of leafy greens classified as "brassicas". The wild ancestor of cabbage, Brassica oleracea , originally found in Britain and continental Europe, is tolerant of salt but not encroachment by other plants and consequently inhabits rocky cliffs in cool damp coastal habitats, retaining water and nutrients in its slightly thickened, turgid leaves. According to the
triangle of U theory of the evolution and relationships between Brassica species, B. oleracea and other closely related kale vegetables (cabbages, kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower) represent one of three ancestral lines from which all other brassicas originated.
Cabbage was probably domesticated later in history than Near Eastern crops such as lentils and summer wheat . Because of the wide range of crops developed from the wild B. oleracea , multiple broadly contemporaneous domestications of cabbage may have occurred throughout Europe. Nonheading cabbages and kale were probably the first to be domesticated, before 1000 BC, by the Celts of central and western Europe.


Unidentified brassicas were part of the highly conservative unchanging Mesopotamian garden repertory.
It is believed that the ancient Egyptians did not cultivate cabbage,  which is not native to the Nile valley, though a word shaw't in Papyrus Harris of the time of Ramesses III , has been interpreted as "cabbage".  Ptolemaic Egyptians knew the cole crops as gramb , under the influence of Greek krambe , which had been a familiar plant to the Macedonian antecedents of the Ptolemies;  By early Roman times Egyptian artisans and children were eating cabbage and turnips among a wide variety of other pulses and vegetables.
The ancient Greeks had some varieties of cabbage, as mentioned by Theophrastus , although whether they were more closely related to today's cabbage or to one of the other Brassica crops is unknown.  The headed cabbage variety was known to Greeks as
krambe and to Romans as brassica or olus;  the open, leafy variety (kale) was known in Greek as
raphanos and in Latin as caulis .
Chrysippus of Cnidos wrote a treatise on cabbage, which Pliny knew,  but has not survived. The Greeks were convinced that cabbages and grapevines were inimical, and that cabbage planted too near the vine would impart its unwelcome odor to the grapes; this Mediterranean sense of antipathy survives today. Brassica was considered by some Romans a table luxury, [33] although Lucullus considered it unfit for the senatorial table. [34] The more traditionalist
Cato the Elder, espousing a simple, Republican life, ate his cabbage cooked or raw and dressed with vinegar; he said it surpassed all other vegetables, gave directions for its medicinal use, which extended to the cabbage-eater's urine, in which infants might be rinsed. [35] and approvingly distinguished three varieties. Pliny the Elder listed seven, including
Pompeii cabbage, Cumae cabbage and Sabellian cabbage. [27] According to Pliny, the Pompeii cabbage, which could not stand cold, is "taller, and has a thick stock near the root, but grows thicker between the leaves, these being scantier and narrower, but their tenderness is a valuable quality".
[33] The Pompeii cabbage was also mentioned by
Columella in De Re Rustica. [33] Apicius gives several recipes for cauliculi, tender cabbage shoots. The Greeks and Romans claimed medicinal usages for their cabbage variety that included relief from gout , headaches and the symptoms of poisonous mushroom ingestion. [36] The antipathy towards the vine made it seem that eating cabbage would avoid drunkenness. [37] Cabbage continued to figure in the
materia medica of antiquity as well as at table: in the first century AD Dioscorides mentions two kinds of coleworts with medical uses, the cultivated and the wild, [12] and his opinions continued to be paraphrased in herbals right through the 17th century.
At the end of Antiquity cabbage is mentioned in De observatione ciborum ("On the Observance of Foods") of Anthemis , a Greek doctor at the court of Theodoric the Great, and cabbage appears among vegetables directed to be cultivated in the Capitulare de villis , composed c. 771-800 that guided the governance of the royal estates of Charlemagne .
In Britain the Anglo-Saxon cultivated cawel .[38] When round-headed cabbages appeared in 14th-century England they were called cabaches and caboches , words drawn from Old French and applied at first to refer to the ball of unopened leaves,[39] the contemporaneous recipe that commences "Take cabbages and quarter them, and seethe them in good broth", [40] also suggests the tightly headed cabbage.
Harvesting cabbage, Tacuinum Sanitatis , 15th century.
Manuscript illuminations show the prominence of cabbage in the cuisine of the High Middle Ages ,[22] and cabbage seeds feature among the seed list of purchases for the use of King John II of France when captive in England in 1360, [41] but cabbages were also a familiar staple of the poor: in the lean year of 1420 the "Bourgeois of Paris" noted that "poor people ate no bread, nothing but cabbages and turnips and such dishes, without any bread or salt". [42] French naturalist Jean Ruel made what is considered the first explicit mention of head cabbage in his 1536 botanical treatise De Natura Stirpium, referring to it as
capucos coles ("head-coles"), [43] Sir Anthony Ashley, 1st Baronet, did not disdain to have a cabbage at the foot of his monument in Wimborne St Giles. [44]
In Istanbul Sultan Selim III penned a tongue-in-cheek ode to cabbage: without cabbage the halva feast was not complete. [45] Cabbages spread from Europe into
Mesopotamia and Egypt as a winter vegetable, and later followed trade routes throughout Asia and the Americas. [25] The absence of Sanskrit or other ancient Eastern language names for cabbage suggests that it was introduced to South Asia relatively recently. [7] In India, cabbage was one of several vegetable crops introduced by colonizing traders from Portugal, who established trade routes from the 14th to 17th centuries. [46] Carl Peter Thunberg reported that cabbage was not yet known in Japan in 1775. [12]
Many cabbage varieties—including some still commonly grown—were introduced in Germany, France, and the Low Countries .[7] During the 16th century, German gardeners developed the savoy cabbage .[47] During the 17th and 18th centuries, cabbage was a food staple in such countries as Germany, England, Ireland and Russia, and pickled cabbage was frequently seen. [48] Sauerkraut was used by Dutch, Scandinavian and German sailors to prevent scurvy during long ship voyages. [49]
Jacques Cartier first brought cabbage to the Americas in 1541–42, and it was probably planted by the early English colonists, despite the lack of written evidence of its existence there until the mid-17th century. By the 18th century, it was commonly planted by both colonists and native American Indians .[7] Cabbage seeds traveled to Australia in 1788 with the First Fleet , and were planted the same year on Norfolk Island. It became a favorite vegetable of Australians by the 1830s and was frequently seen at the Sydney Markets .[47]
There are several Guinness Book of World Records entries related to cabbage. These include the heaviest cabbage, at 57.61 kilograms (127.0 lb), [50] heaviest red cabbage, at 19.05 kilograms (42.0 lb),
[51] longest cabbage roll , at 15.37 meters (50.4 ft),
[52] and the largest cabbage dish, at 925.4 kilograms (2,040 lb). [53] In 2012, Scott Robb of Palmer, Alaska, broke the world record for heaviest cabbage at 62.71 kilograms (138.25 lb).
Have you ever thought about this.........


Lettuce was first cultivated in ancient Egypt for the production of oil from its seeds. This plant was probably selectively bred by the Egyptians into a plant grown for its edible leaves, with evidence of its cultivation appearing as early as 2680 BC.  Lettuce was considered a sacred plant of the reproduction god Min, and it was carried during his festivals and placed near his images. The plant was thought to help the god "perform the sexual act untiringly."  Its use in religious ceremonies resulted in the creation of many images in tombs and wall paintings. The cultivated variety appears to have been about 30 inches (76 cm) tall and resembled a large version of the modern romaine lettuce. These upright lettuces were developed by the Egyptians and passed to the Greeks, who in turn shared them with the Romans. Circa 50 AD, Roman agriculturalist
Columella described several lettuce varieties – some of which may have been ancestors of today's lettuces.
Lettuce appears in many medieval writings, especially as a medicinal herb. Hildegard of Bingen mentioned it in her writings on medicinal herbs between 1098 and 1179, and many early herbals also describe its uses. In 1586, Joachim Camerarius provided descriptions of the three basic modern lettuces – head lettuce, loose-leaf lettuce, and romaine (or cos) lettuce.  Lettuce was first brought to the Americas from Europe by Christopher Columbus in the late 15th century.   Between the late 16th century and the early 18th century, many varieties were developed in Europe, particularly Holland. Books published in the mid-18th and early 19th centuries describe several varieties found in gardens today.
Due to its short lifespan after harvest, lettuce was originally sold relatively close to where it was grown. The early 20th century saw the development of new packing, storage and shipping technologies that improved the lifespan and transportability of lettuce and resulted in a significant increase in availability. During the 1950s, lettuce production was revolutionized with the development of vacuum cooling , which allowed field cooling and packing of lettuce, replacing the previously used method of ice-cooling in packing houses outside the fields.
Lettuce is very easy to grow, and as such has been a significant source of sales for many seed companies . Tracing the history of many varieties is complicated by the practice of many companies, particularly in the US, of changing a variety's name from year to year. This was done for several reasons, the most prominent being to boost sales by promoting a "new" variety or to prevent customers from knowing that the variety had been developed by a competing seed company. Documentation from the late 19th century shows between 65 and 140 distinct varieties of lettuce, depending on the amount of variation allowed between types – a distinct difference from the 1,100 named lettuce varieties on the market at the time. Names also often changed significantly from country to country.  Although most lettuce grown today is used as a vegetable, a minor amount is used in the production of tobacco-free cigarettes; however, domestic lettuce's wild relatives produce a leaf that visually more closely resembles tobacco.