ITEMS NEEDED TO MAKE CONCRETE
STONE:
Five-Gallon
Plastic Bucket, Wheel Barrow, or Concrete Mixing Tub - Bags of Premix Concrete
- Concrete Colorant - Water - Shovel - Plastic Wrap - Molds - Plastic Gloves
and Eye Protection - Mold Release - Concrete Sealer
Simply put… cement is actually a component of concrete. Consider it the “glue” that holds the sand, aggregate, colorant, etc., together, forming what is actually called concrete.
MAKING CONCRETE STONE, PAVERS, BRICKS AND TILE:
can make your product almost anywhere, and depending on temperatures, at almost anytime. The main thing is to stay above freezing temperatures during the mixing and curing process. Once cured, temperature is not a factor. The stone or tile can be stored outside with no problems. After mixing, and during the curing process, it is best to produce the stone or tile in as moderate a temperature as possible. Concrete sets up and cures at almost any temperature, but the warmer… the better. As the temperature rises, so does the speed of the set-up time and curing process.You
CONCRETE MOLD PREPARATION:
The first thing you need to do is apply a mold release product to the molds. While this is not always necessary, it is strongly recommended to aid in demoulding and to extend the useful life of the mold. If you are using our Olde World Mold Release, it can be sprayed from a plant-misting type spray bottle directly into the mold. Wipe excess out with a fine sponge or absorbent cotton cloth. Leave enough to barely coat the mold. If you have a small project, you can use a light vegetable oil as a mold release. Either spray it into your mold, or spread it evenly and wipe out the excess. A “barely visible”, very light coating is all that is required. Remember that the main cause of bug holes, or “bubbles” on the surface of the stone, is leaving excess oil in the mold.
Mixing Bay Premix Concrete:
NOTE: If you have a very large project, or want to use a basic concrete mix using Portland Cement, sand, gravel, etc., see our "Portland Cement Mix Instructions, or Google… “basic concrete mixes”, to see various formulas.
Using the measuring guide on the concrete package, mix the amount of concrete you will need for your project. You want a stiff mix, but not one that is too dry. It should not “flow” like pancake batter. Too thin a mix will give you a very weak product. If you want to color your product, you should mix the desired amount of powdered colorant into the dry mix first. If you're using a liquid colorant, mix it thoroughly into your mixing water first. To get a random shading effect, sprinkle powdered colorant into the mold after applying mold release. Shake the mold from side to side to give a random coverage, or a dusting. You may also spread the colorant around the inside of the mold with a brush. The best, and most natural looking results are obtained with a random spreading or dusting of the complimenting color. Do not use more than a light sprinkling of color as you don't want to overpower your base color. You want slight contrasting colors to blend into your base color. .
When your concrete is mixed and ready to be poured, carefully scoop the mix into the mold. If using one of our (1.5”+ deep) paver or steppingstone molds, and are making a paver or steppingstone, fill the mold to the top. You may also use one of our “paver” or “steppingstone” molds to make ½” tile… just pour it thinner. If you are pouring a “tile” or a “veneer” stone, pour it to a depth of one-half to five-eighths inches deep. In a 12x12 tile mold, a 46-ounce juice-can may be used as a scoop/measure device that will give you a consistent ½” thick tile.
FINISHING THE MOLD CASTING:
Immediately after filling, bounce your mold up and down to help compact the concrete mixture, and to break up any air pockets and insure a solid base. This will also help smooth and level the back of your product. Any excess liquid will automatically come to the surface of the mold during this process, as well. If you have a large project, or will be making more stone or tile in the future, you may want to consider either purchasing or making a vibrating table. Now put your filled mold on a flat surface, out of the way, and out of direct sun, if possible. Cover with either plastic wrap, or a piece of plastic. You want to keep the back protected and the concrete as wet as possible, for as long as possible. The hydration process is what helps cure the stone or tile. Leave the filled mold alone for as long as possible, and no less than 24 hours, if at all possible. Remember… the concrete will get stronger the longer it is in the mold curing. The curing process continues for as long as 30+ days, so remember the following…
KEEP YOUR NEW STONE COVERED IN PLASTIC! DO NOT FORCE DRY! “DRYING” IS NOT “CURING”!
THE DEMOLDING PROCESS:
Under normal circumstances, after about 24 hours, you are ready to demold your stone. To de-mold, flip your mold over onto the backside, with the face of the mold facing up. Gently lift the mold off from the corners. It usually will come right off of your stone or tile easily. If it sticks a little, gently press the center and each mold corner lightly to help it loosen up…. There you have it! If you are going to pour more stone or tile right away, apply your mold release, and follow the procedure as before. You may use the oil to help dislodge any color or concrete that may have stuck to your mold. If doing the same project, it's fine to leave some of the remaining colorant coating in the mold. It will just add what I like to refer to as “character” to the next stone you make.
THE CONCRETE CURING PROCESS:
You should now put your stone, pavers, bricks, or tile in a protected area, and cover them with the plastic wrap or a tarp StoneKote Sealer to protect it. If it's an interior application, two or three coats of a topical sealer are in order again to keep the moisture in. Let them “cure” for a week or two before applying a protective sealer. If your item is for an exterior application, you may want to apply a penetrating sealer like our.
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