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A wheelbarrow is a small hand-propelled vehicle, usually with just one wheel, designed to be pushed and guided by a single person using two handles at the rear, or by a sail to push the ancient wheelbarrow by wind. The term "wheelbarrow" is made of two words: "wheel" and "barrow." "Barrow" is a derivation of the Old English "bearwe" which was a device used for carrying loads.

The wheelbarrow is designed to distribute the weight of its load between the wheel and the operator so enabling the convenient carriage of heavier and bulkier loads than would be possible were the weight carried entirely by the operator. As such it is a second-class lever. Traditional Chinese wheelbarrows, however, had a central wheel supporting the whole load. Use of wheelbarrows is common in the construction industry and in gardening. Typical capacity is approximately 100 liters (4 cubic feet) of material.

A two-wheel type is more stable on level ground, while the almost universal one-wheel type has better maneuverability in small spaces, on planks or when tilted ground would throw the load off balance. The use of one wheel also permits greater control of the deposition of the load on emptying.

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Pulling a weed the hard way.

Pulling Weeds by Hand

The best way, though the hardest, is to pull the weeds by hand. Keep in mind that for this method to be effective, you should remove the whole plant with its roots. For weeds with shallow roots, you can just hold the plant by its stem and pull gently. For those with deeper roots, such as dandelions, you need to take some extra care when removing them. You can use a small hoe to dig in the soil around the stem to loosen the soil, then get a firm grasp of the stem and pull. You may need to dig deeper and try pulling several times until you get the entire root out successfully.

Pulling Weeds With a Gardening Tool

Pulling weeds by hand is time-consuming, back-breaking work. An alternative is to use gardening tools to help. For shallow-rooted weeds, you can use a regular garden hoe, but for deep-rooted ones, I recommend you use a special tool called a winged weeder.

To remove weeds with the winged weeder, place the bottom tip of the blade right next to the stem and press down vertically to push the blade into the soil and then tilt the weeder downwards towards the ground to pull the whole root out. Repeat this operation as necessary. Note that using this tool is more time-consuming than using a regular hoe as you need to individually remove each unwanted plant, but it works better for deeper roots.

You can purchase these tools from any hardware store.

Using a Chemical Weeding Product

If there are too many weeds to remove manually or with a hoe, you can use a weed killer made of chemicals and spray the chemical directly on each weed. It's not environment-friendly, so use only if it is absolutely necessary. Some, like Ortho's Weed-B-Gon, kill many weeds including dandelions, crabgrass, and clover. This product does not damage the lawn. Or you can purchase the concentrate, mix it with water, then spray where needed.

After spraying, you can see results in a day or so. After they die, you'll have remove them by hand, which is difficult, but much easier than pulling a live weed.

A downside of these chemicals is that they may not kill the weeds entirely. The chemical only kills what it touches, and if it was not sprayed sufficiently, the weed may not die, so make sure to cover all unwanted plants sufficiently.

Weed Prevention

To make your weed removal efforts long-lasting, you can take some proactive measures to delay unwanted plants from growing back again by using chemical products or by laying down landscape fabric. Both of these methods are described in detail below.

Using a Weed Preventer

You can use weed preventer granules, such as Preen, to prevent weeds from growing for a temporary period of about three months. Some bottles come with a handy dispenser that enables you to spread the granules around plants, bushes, and trees.

Some weed preventers also come with a fertilizer for plants, so you get both benefits.

Using a Chemical Lawn Fertilizer with Weed Control

A fertilized lawn has fewer weeds since a healthy lawn is dense and leaves little space for unwanted plants to grow. Therefore, both fertilizing your lawn and spreading a weed preventer help control weeds. There are some products available that combine lawn fertilizers with weed control, such as Scott's Turf Builder with Weed Control.

By the way, it is recommended that you fertilize your lawn twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.

Natural Weed Prevention—Using Landscape Fabric

A chemical can help prevent weeds from growing for only a few months, after which they will reappear if you don't reapply the chemical. For longer-lasting results, you can use landscape fabric, which prevents them from growing for several years. Landscape fabric blocks the sun from the covered area, preventing unwanted plants from growing, although it still allows air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil. You can cut holes in this fabric to allow certain plants to live happily.

Use landscape fabric on any area that you don’t want weeds to grow on, large or small, such as a flower bed or a narrow alley that is difficult to mow. Rolls of this material can be purchased from hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe's or in the garden section of a grocery store.

When laying down the landscape fabric, there are several steps you need to follow. The following video shows how to lay down landscape fabric around plants and it is followed by steps that describe how to completely cover an alley.

garden fork

A garden fork, spading fork, digging fork or graip is a gardening implement, with a handle and several (usually four) short, sturdy tines. It is used for loosening, lifting and turning over soil in gardening and farming. It is used similarly to a spade, but in many circumstances it is more appropriate than a spade: the tines allow the implement to be pushed more easily into the ground, it can rake out stones and weeds and break up clods, it is not so easily stopped by stones, and it does not cut through weed roots or root-crops. Garden forks were originally made of wood, but the majority are now made of carbon steel orstainless steel.

Garden forks are slightly different from pitchforks, which are used for moving loose materials such as piled hay, compost, or manure. Garden forks have comparatively a fairly short, usually wooden handle, with a "D" or "T" end. Their tines are usually shorter, flatter, thicker, and more closely spaced.

A smaller version of such forks with shorter, closer-spaced, thinner tines (but a full-sized handle) is known as a border fork or ladies' fork, and is used for lighter work such as weeding amongst other plants. Forks with broader, flatter tines are made for lifting potatoes and other root crops from the ground. A pair of forks back-to-back is often used to lever apart dense clumps of roots

Rake may refer to:

• Rake (tool), a horticultural implement, a long-handled tool with tines
• Rake or hay rake, a farm implement
• Rake, the caster angle of a bicycle or motorcycle
• Rake angle, a parameter in machining and cutting geometry
• Rake (cellular automaton), a cellular automaton pattern that moves while regularly emitting spaceships
• Rake (character), a man habituated to immoral conduct
• Rake (poker), the commission taken by a casino when hosting a poker game
• Rake (geology), the angle between a feature on a bedding plane and the strike line in geology
• Rake receiver, a radio receiver
• Rake (software), a variant of the make program coded in the Ruby programming language
• Rake (theatre), the artificial slope of a theatre stage
• Rake (train), a group of coupled passenger coaches, or freight wagons, or railcars (excluding the locomotive) that typically move together

Watch what is horticulture on YouTube.... By fatudimu Jephthah.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jSqlDfxWxY

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Edwards playing for the Young Socceroos in 2013
Personal information
Full name	Ryan Marc Edwards[1]
Date of birth	17 November 1993 (age 22)
Place of birth	Singapore
Height	175 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Playing position	Central midfielder
Club information
Current team	Partick Thistle
Number	19
Youth career
2007–2011	AIS
2011–2012	Reading
Senior career*
Years	Team	Apps†	(Gls)†
2012–2015	Reading	7	(0)
2013–2014	→ Perth Glory (loan)	15	(0)
2015–	Partick Thistle	12	(2)
National team‡
2010–2013	Australia U20	18	(2)
2014–	Australia U-23	18	(0)
* Senior club appearances and goals counted for the domestic league only and correct as of 16:15, 11 May 2016 (UTC). † Appearances (goals) ‡ National team caps and goals correct as of 5 April 2016

Extract from Wikipedia. ........ Types of hoe

TypesEdit

There are many types of hoes of quite different appearances and purposes. Some can perform multiple functions. Others are intended for a specific use.

Cultivating tool pull or draw hoe

There are two main classes of agricultural hoe: draw hoes for shaping, and scuffle hoes for surface weed control.

A draw hoe has the blade set at approximately a right angle to the handle. The user chops into the ground and then pulls (draws) the blade towards them. Altering the angle of the handle can cause the hoe to dig deeper or more shallowly as the hoe is pulled. A draw hoe can easily be used to cultivate soil to a depth of several inches. A typical design of draw hoe, the "eye hoe", has a ring in the head through which the handle is fitted. This design has been used since Roman times.

A scuffle hoe is used to scrape the surface of the soil, and to loosen the top inch or so, and to cut the roots, remove, and disrupt the growth of weeds efficiently. These are mainly of two different designs: the Dutch hoe and the hoop hoe.

Eye hoe heads, some with sow-tooth (German: Sauzahn), Centro Etnográfico de Soutelo de Montes, Pontevedra,Spain

Cultivating tool push or thrust hoe

The term 'hand hoe' most commonly refers to any type of light-weight, short-handled hoe, although it may be used simply to contrast hand-held tools against animal or machine pulled tools.

Draw hoesEdit

• The typical farming and gardening hoe with a heavy, broad blade and a straight edge is known as the grub hoe, grab hoe, pattern hoe, Italian hoe,azada^[ or dago hoe ("dago" is an ethnic slur referring to Italians, Spaniards, or Portuguese).
• Ridging hoes also known as warren or drill hoes are triangular (point-down) or heart-shaped draw hoes particularly for creating narrow furrows (drills) and shallow trenches for planting seeds and bulbs.

Hoedad (tree-planting tool) Kaibab National Forest, Arizona, USA

• Hoedads (also, "hoedags") are hoe-like tools used for planting trees.ccording to Hartzell (1987, p. 29), "The hoedag [was] originally called skindvic hoe... Hans Rasmussen, legendary contractor and timber farm owner, is credited with having invented the curved, convex, round-nosed hoedag blade which is widely used today" (emphasis added).
• The mortar hoe, a tool specific to hand mixing mortar and concrete, has the appearance of a typical square-bladed draw hoe with the addition of large holes in the blade.

Scuffle hoesEdit

• The Dutch hoe is a design that is pushed or pulled through the soil to cut weeds just under the surface. A Dutch hoe has a blade "sharp on every side so as to cut either forwards and backwards". The blade must be set in a plane slightly upwardly inclined to the dual axis of the rod used as a handle stick. The user uses the handle to push the blade forward, forcing it below the surface of the ground and maintaining it at a shallow depth in the surface layer of soil by altering the angle of the handle whilst pushing. A push hoe can easily cultivate and remove weeds etc. from the surface layer of the soil.
• The hoop hoe (also known as action, oscillating, hula, stirrup, pendulum weeder, or swivel hoes) have a double-edge blade that bends around to form a rectangle attached to the handle. Weeds are cut just below the soil surface as the blade is pushed & pulled through the area. The back and forth motion is highly effective with cutting weeds in loose or breakable soil. Widths of the blade typically range between three and seven inches. Its tool-head is a loop of flat, sharpened strap metal. It is not as efficient as a draw hoe for moving soil.
• The collinear hoe has a narrow, razor-sharp blade which is used to slice weeds by skimming it just under the surface of the soil with a sweeping motion; it is unsuitable for tasks like soil moving and chopping. It was designed by Eliot Coleman in the late 1980s.
• The Swoe hoe is a modern  one-sided cutting hoe - a variant of the Dutch hoe.

Other hoesEdit

Hoes resembling neither draw nor scuffle hoes include:

• Wheel hoes are, as the name suggests, a hoe or pair of hoes attached to one or more wheels. The hoes are frequently interchangeable with other tools.

• Horse hoes, resembling small ploughs, were a favourite implement of agricultural pioneer Jethro Tull, claiming in his book "Horse Hoeing Husbandry" that "the horse-hoe will, in wide intervals, give wheat throughout all the stages of its life, as much nourishment as the discreet hoer pleases". The modern view is that, rather than nutrients being released, the crop simply benefits from the removal of competing plants.The introduction of the horse hoe, together with the better-known seed drill, brought about the great increase farming productivity seen during the British Agricultural Revolution.

Fork-hoe depiction in Der Rebmann (the vine-dresser). Jost Amman, Das Ständebuch, 1568

• Fork hoes, (also known as prong hoes, tined hoes or bent forks) are hoes that have two or more tines at right angles to the shaft. Their use is typically to loosen the soil, prior to planting or sowing.
• Clam hoes, made for clam digging
• Adze hoes, with the basic hoe shape but heavier and stronger and with traditional uses in trail making,
• Pacul or cangkul (hoes similar to adze hoe from Malaysia and Indonesia)
• Gang hoes for powered use (in use at least from 1887 to 1964